Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Kalinga1. Red Ants vs Snails From The Rice Field.

Northern Luzon in Philippines, region Coldiriera. Lush green mountains, hundreds years old rice terraces, tattooed head hunters, exotic wildlife and like every time in Philippines no tourists.

We are sitting in a small restaurant in Bontoc. It is the biggest town in that remote province. We do not know where to go. We have asked some people in a regional museum about culinary customs of the hill tribes but they said: Go somewhere far away where nobody goes so you will probably find it. We are confused. Suddenly we hear the question on our back. Do you want to go to Kalinga with me? It is Francis Pai Inn. Over fifty years old guy who is a tour guide in the Kalinga Province. But we don’t know about it. We just see the older Philippines guy in front of us.
It is said in our favorite Lonely Planet that province is a dangerous place. Not recommended at all. Local hill tribes were head hunters and some of them they still do it. New Peoples Army used to stay in the mountains. The province is semi anarchic place ruled by dangerous people.
Francis has mountain shoes, nice smile and thick notebook with recommendation from all his customers from all around the world. He looks harmless and responsibleenough . We have no choice. We are going with him!
First we have to buy some gifts for ex-headhunters. Francis knows what they like. For kids we have some sweets and for adults a lot of matches boxes. With that equipment we can hang around more safe in Kalinga Province.
After half an hour we are on the roof of old off road bus to Tinglaian Village. We are sitting on the bags with rice, boxes with beer, container with oil. It is the best ride in my life. The road is bumpy, muddy with hundred serpentines. Under the road is a abbys with the rough river. Above our heads tops of the beautiful mountains are partly covered by clouds. We have to hold the car strong to do not fall down. Cool wind is blowing in my face. First village placed on the slope of the mountains is amazing. Tiny wooden houses, slim white tower of catholic church and light green rice terraces around. Every next view is more charming than another.

We ask Francis about what strange people used to eat here. He is confused. Nobody has asked him about it before. But he started to think about it more seriously. On another day in the morning he woke up us very early in the morning. It was still dark outside and misty. I know! He said. I will show you live of New Peoples Army. Take some good shoes, long trousers, water and we are going up to the mountains. There is strange food in Kalinga but there are no any restaurants where you can buy it. We have to do it by ourselves from the beginning.

Dogs are playing in front of Francis' house. That concrete slab is a grave of his grandmother.


We are climbing up. We have to find in the forest home of the biggest poisonous red ants. Their white eggs are “very delicious!” Francis said.


It is not a dry season. The higher we are the more clouds coming from the mountains. Our village will disappear in mist soon.


Young guy, hunter from the village climbing the tree. He has just found the big house of ants. In the shape of big ball made of brown leaves thousands of giant red ants live. No more sharpness. It is to cloudy and dark in the forest. It is not a right place for taking photo. In one second the huge ball with thousands ants can hit my head.


Now ants are everywhere around us and on us. I feel pain. They are in my pants!
The hunter is a strong guy. He is collecting them by hands. I can hardly come closer to take that photo.

We are going down. There are rice terraces. Now they are empty. The flat surfaces of water reflect the sky and mountains. The boy is walking around in the shallow water and mud. He is picking up the small snails. His basket is full after the 15 minutes.

Francis Pa Inn. Tourist guide, trainee chef of New Peoples Army, single. His parents were head hunters. On their bodies we can see many tatooes. Every head of the enemy is the next sign and proud for the warrior. Now they take care about few pigs and chickens. They cultivate rice and black bean. Francis is the only one and first tour guide in Kalinga Province. His knowledge about the mountains and local communities helped not only tourists but also many scientists who made research about indigenous people in North Luzon. We are the first who asked him about culinary customs. Hopefully Francis likes to cook. He is single so he has to do it. But the idea about strange food comes not from his status. He was a soldier in New Peoples Army.
One day Marcos decided to make a big dam on the river in their valley. The all Kalinga province supposed to be flooded. All villages, rice terraces build hundreds years ago, animals, forest under the water. There was no choice for Kalinga people. They took arms to save their beautiful valley. During the war they had to hide many days in the mountains eating everything what they could achieve in the forest.

The soup is ready to eat. It contains not only the red ants and snails. There are lots of herbs and spices just near the stream where we are cooking. Wild ginger, chili, garlic and some other nice looking green plants are around.


The smell and taste is great! Maciek is going to finish his bowl soon.

We are in Francis' home. Francis has fried the rest of red ants with banana heart. The smell is attracting pigs. They know what is the best in Kalinga.





2 comments:

Viagra Online said...

I'm so impressed seeing how these people from Philippines surviving in those conditions, they are so intelligent because they have special techniques to hunting and getting their food.m10m

Anonymous said...

Just want to say уouг articlе iѕ as astounding.
The clearnеss in yоur pοst
іs simply nice and i can аssume you are an expert on this subject.
Fіne with yоur permission allow mе to gгab yοur feed to keep up to date with fоrthcoming
post. Thanks a million and pleasе continuе the gratifying work.


Here is my blog: buy toys